Nadège Vanhée, the artistic director of Hermès' womenswear collections, has navigated a remarkable journey that has taken her from her native France to the global fashion capitals of Antwerp, Brussels, Paris, London, and New York. Her experiences as an outsider have profoundly shaped her design philosophy, as she seeks to redefine the Hermès woman's identity and push the boundaries of the brand's iconic Parisian style.
Embracing the Duality of Identity
A Homecoming with a Twist
Vanhée's appointment as the artistic director of Hermès' womenswear collections in 2014 marked a homecoming of sorts, as she returned to her French roots after years of living and working abroad. However, her time as an expatriate has left an indelible mark on her creative sensibilities, and she still feels like an outsider in her own country. Vanhée's "sentimental creative language" is English, and she describes herself as having "always been floating between the two" cultures.
Navigating the Hermès Legacy
Vanhée's appointment was not without its challenges, as she had to "realign" herself with her French identity during the first six months on the job. However, she was undaunted by the cultural significance of Hermès to the French populace, recognizing it as a symbol of Parisian style and a source of national pride. Vanhée's design philosophy is one of quiet rebellion, subtly pushing the boundaries of what the Hermès woman can be, drawing on her unique perspective as an outsider.
Embracing the Global Shift
Vanhée's approach reflects a broader shift in the Hermès consumer, who is increasingly international and, like the designer herself, navigates between countries and cultures. This global outlook has contributed to the brand's impressive sales in recent years, even as the luxury market has slowed. Hermès is no longer the exclusive domain of the Parisian bourgeoisie, but a brand that resonates with a diverse, cosmopolitan clientele.
Redefining Sensuality and Strength
In her collections, Vanhée embraces contrasts, blending sensuality and toughness, masculinity and femininity, the quotidian with intricate flights of craft. Her designs often defy expectations, subverting traditional notions of luxury and elegance. The designer's "enigmatic" persona, marked by a quiet absence from the spotlight and social media, further reinforces the sense of mystery and surprise that permeates her work.
Celebrating Tactility and Vulnerability
Vanhée's design process is deeply rooted in the concept of "touch," or "le main" in French, as she seeks to celebrate the sensual and tactile qualities of Hermès' heritage fabrics. This emphasis on tactility is a direct response to the isolation and disconnection experienced during the COVID-19 pandemic, as Vanhée aims to redefine what it means to be "sensual" or "sexy" through the intuition of a woman.
Storytelling and the Hermès Ethos
Storytelling is at the heart of Vanhée's approach to Hermès, as she draws inspiration from the house's rich history and the narratives passed down by its artisans. Each collection is imbued with a sense of meaning and purpose, reflecting the brand's capacity for assimilation and its ability to bridge modernity and tradition. Vanhée sees her role as a preserver of quality, creating a "uniform to protect against the erosion of life" and empowering women to express their diverse identities through her designs.
Connecting with a Global Audience
Vanhée's recent New York show marked an opportunity for the designer to engage with the growing American market, both through the runway presentation and a series of activations and events. The designer's time in New York holds personal significance, as it was a formative experience that ultimately led her to the Hermès role. Vanhée's collections aim to resonate with women of diverse backgrounds and lifestyles, from Hong Kong to Sacramento, reflecting the interconnectedness of the modern world.
